Oscar de la Renta tragically passed away almost a year ago, leaving behind him a great legacy. While he is greatly missed, his spirit was most definitely felt in Peter Copping’s latest collection for the fashion house shown at New York Fashion Week. Copping had huge shoes to fill, but he already seems to be striking the right balance between honoruing the late, great Oscar and putting his own stamp on proceedings.
For SS16, there was a collection that paid tribute to de la Renta’s preoccupation with graceful femininity, scattered with carnations- Oscar’s favourite flower- as well as the founding designer’s Latin heritage. There was a Spanish flair seen in Matador-inspired capes and neat skirt suits, as well as a nod to Flamenco silhouettes realised in long skirts- decorated with those carnations- teamed with sheer lace tops.
Espadrilles were worn with pencil skirts and vivid summer dresses with oversized sleeves, t-bar sandals went with cocktail dresses that had delicately puffed ballgown skirts. Red guipure lace, satin finishes and an extraordinary colour palette all helped create the romantic haze which engulfed this collection, but that’s not to say it was saccharine. A hint of denim seen in ruffled skirts and a tailored jacket tied with a black ribbon, as well as the subtle, cut-out detail on a bandeau dress and sheer fabrics lent a sensuality to Copping’s new offering.
Silk two pieces, light organza ruffles, embellishment… all gave way to the final breathtaking gowns. A lilac satin ballgown with black straps and bow detail swept down the runway alongside lace dresses with Victoriana necklines and a sheer gown covered in 3D appliqued versions of those prominent carnations.
Hair was worn in a centre parting and pulled back into glossy, low ponytails. And, of course, the models’ ears were adorned with jewels. It was a sumptuous, glamorous celebration that left us longing to be a part of Copping’s vision. Under his direction, Oscar de la Renta’s great fashion legacy lives on.