Milan's SS16 shows included new designers, a sparkly new venue and inspiration from scuba diving, roadworks and our favourite feline's. Twiddling your thumbs for a peak of next season, we have everything you need to know about Milan's September shows.
Milan Fashion Week Dates:
Milan Fashion Week runs from 21st-26th September and we’ve got all you need to know about this season’s shows – on and off the catwalk…
Milan’s venue shifted from downtown area to the business district known as Porta Nuova two seasons ago. Many of the big names are yet to confirm their show spaces but watch this space, the Italians always put on a spectacle.
The Show Schedule:
Milan plays host to some of fashion’s most swoon worthy designers.
With day one kicking of with Gucci, Roberto Cavalli and cool kids NO.21, like London, Milan’s schedule faces a shake up.
Giorgio Armani traditionally closes Milan’s fashion extravaganza, however this season the celebrated designer will show mid week on the Friday.
Last Summer We Loved:
Cats At Vivetta Ponti and Arthur Arbesser
For the last leg of Milan Fashion Week, there was one particularly prevalent motif: cats. Yep, kitsch Italian brand Vivetta Ponti was the first to mark the kitty territory, adorning collars, flirty dresses, miniskirts and overalls with the pattern. Arthur Arbesser, meanwhile, opted for a more subtle sexy version of the print on sheer polo skirts, crisp white ensembles and striped day dresses. While the print isn’t one we’ve seen a lot of thus far, we sure hope it’s here to stay. Miaow!
Giorgio Armani’s Sparkly Seperates
In true Armani style, the SS16 collection was feminine, elegant and very, very chic. The shapes were simple – palazzo trousers, slip dresses and short suits all featured – but the textures and detailing anything but. Glam holiday dressing at its absolute best, we loved the skinny stripes, beaded embellishment and super oversized hats. When it comes to colour, the Italian designer plumped for a wearable palette of red, blue and white broken up with shades of grey.
We want it all.
Marni Brights And Layers
Consuelo Castiglioni brought a burst of colourful energy to Milan Fashion Week with his SS16 collection, sending his models down the catwalk in asymmetric layers, longline skirts and statement belted leather. Circles were a prevalent motif, and featured on everything from interlaced tiered skirts to printed silks, plus there was a definite nod to the Swinging Sixties with the addition of chunky perspex jewellery and Twiggy-esque eyelashes. As always with Marni, things are never what they seem, and there were plenty of suprises in the form of semi-hidden sequins and massively wide flares. All in all, a fun and sophisticated presentation.
Peter Dundas Does His Thing At Roberto Cavalli:
There was huge anticipation for the Roberto Cavalli show in Milan this afternoon as Peter Dundas showed his very first collection for the brand. After moving on from Pucci earlier this year, the designer gave the Cavalli girl a bit of a makeover. Keeping the classic Cavalli touches in place – with animal print minis and sassy frocks – Dundas also made sure to inject the brand with the glamour for which he has become known. Huge ball gown skirts were contrasted with tie-dyed biker jackets and sporty sweatshirts to create one very exciting collection indeed.
Dsquared2 Makes Scuba Diving Look Chic
At the Dsquared2 show models strutted down the runway in a mixture of neoprene neon and vivid patterns. The show had tropical influences, from the heavily beaded dresses covered in birds of paradise print to the chunky seashell accessories seen on all of the models. The colourful scuba theme transitioned into a darker one when models emerged in tattoo suits sat beneath nude and black dresses with structured tailoring. The entire collection was stunning and we have got our eyes on those tie dyed leggings
Sportmax Takes Us Back To The Sixties:
Colourful doesn’t even begin to describe Sportmax’s spring collection. From vibrant oranges to sunny yellows, the fashion house made a seriously bold statement on the catwalk this weekend. Sharp jackets sat alongside cute pinafores and chunky sandals, while details included exaggerated eyelets, huge buckles and contrast pockets. Everything was wearable and we wanted it all, especially that wide-legged yellow jumpsuit which just has to be the hero piece of this gorgeous collection.
Etro’s Nomadic Garden:
It seems as if the Seventies bohemian trend isn’t going anywhere fast and Etro, the house renowned for its hippy prints, intricate beading and floaty frocks, is leading the way for the next wave of boho-babes for spring/summer 2016. Beautiful lace maxis, chintzy florals and an abundance of ruffles make up the majority of the collection – appropriately titled Nomadic Garden – but it’s the lace-up rose painted leather booties that will be on most our lust lists next season.
Bottega’s Wild Side:
Leopard spots was Tomas Maier’s power print of choice for his spring/ summer 2016 offering for the house of Bottega Veneta. It adorned everything from bomber jackets and skirts to paneled shift dresses and shoes. Fashion’s current fave fabric, snakeskin, also made a reappearance by way of patchwork leather jackets and dresses so hold on to your python printed bikers, shoes and bags for next season ladies.
Versace’s Girl Army:
We’ll be joining the long line of ladies queuing up to join Donatella’s girl army next season. Versace’s military–esque collection featured tailored utility jackets in signature shades of khaki green and sandy beige, oversized buckled waist-belts and camo combinations of animal print, lace and patent leather… sign us up NOW!
Giamba’s Fun Frocks:
Giambattista Valli’s sister line, Giamba, was all party-ready frocks and fun prints on the catwalk in Milan yesterday. From lipstick prints to sequins, stars and stripes, the collection was a sea of beautiful, fun frocks that we will be seeing on young red carpet starlets in no time. “It’s really all about Free The Nipple,” the designer explained backstage. Using carefully placed stars on sheer dresses to cover their modesty, the risque dresses were very in keeping with the #FreeTheNipple movement of today. We have a feeling Miley Cyrus has already ordered one.
Emporio Armani’s Pink Moment:
Changing things up for spring, Armani went for pinks and oranges throughout his collection in what can only be described as a much more casual direction than he usually takes. Models wore cropped t-shirts with emojis on, flat shoes and majorly deconstructed officewear. It was relaxed, colourful and thoroughly magical.
Max Mara’s Maritime:
From porthole motifs and rope prints to nautical stars, Max Mara’s SS16 collection merged fashion with a theme of maritime life and sailing. Drawstring waists and balloon collars featuring highlighter stripes in vivid rid and yellow made up a significant portion of the collection, complimented only by an equally apt nautical star print. Double breasted jackets and flared trousers in deep navy and black, meanwhile, made for a fashionable take on a captain’s ensembles, while duffle bags complete with rope handles served to further the theme. If there’s one thing we can take from the show, it’s that the Max Mara ship certainly hasn’t sailed..
Streetwear With Moschino:
When it comes to the man who made Barbie, McDonald’s and Spongebob Squarepants chic, we can rest assured that the Moschino show will come as a fun addition to the Fashion Month schedule, and this season was no exception. Based on roadworks and construction, ‘60s silhouettes and cuts from his previous New York Fashion Week show came in the shape of neon, safety jackets while traffic cone-shaped bags and hard hats adorned with demure lace trimmings served to complete each look. In short, what came of Jeremy Scott’s most recent collection was a “kitsch”, fun and very, very literal interpretation of streetwear. Let’s see how long this one takes to catch on…
While Miuccia Prada was absent from her show due to a family bereavement, the SS16 showed no signs of weakness. In stark contrast to the brand’s sickly sweet collection for last season, this one was kickstarted with a number of masculine, loosely-fitting skirts and boxy jackets of sludgy, dull colours in line with the industrial-like backdrop including corrugated plastic cylinders hanging from a jet black ceiling and a concrete floor.
However, it wasn’t long before the show shifted into a more optimistic feel. Sheer organdy dresses, layers of chiffon and sequined opera coats scattered with flowers made for a welcome change to the otherwise murky, dull looks. If we had to sum the show up, we’d say it came as a fashionable representation of the struggles for femininity.
Fendi’s Fancy Work:
If there’s one item we want, nay NEED, for SS16, it’s a Fendi blouse. They came high-necked, with billowing sleeves and in a spectrum of colour, from pristine white to retro coral. There was a distinct Edwardian feel to the silhouette, infused with 80s glamour and the usual Fendi luxury. Edie Campbell opened the show in top-to-toe red, which gave way to snakeskin finishes, stand-out cobalt hues and khaki cover-ups.
The only thing missing was Cara Delevingne, whose presence was very much missed on the catwalk. But with the likes of Edie, Karen Elson, Binx Walton, Natalie Westling and Jamie Bochert showing off Karl Lagerfeld’s latest collection for the brand, we were soon distracted.
As always, the bags were among the most desirable designs that hit the runway. Fendi fever strikes again.
Gucci’s new offering was an incredible, beautiful expansion on last season’s ideas. Since taking the helm at the Italian house, creative director Alessandro Michele has taken Gucci’s style codes and injected them with riotous colour and a new kind of geek-chic that’s already becoming iconic in itself- no wonder Alexa was FROW-side.
Oversized, chiffon pussybows were still particularly prominent for next season, only this time they were worn with black leather bikers decorated with elaborate floral prints. Ruffles, embroidery, sheer dresses, coloured lace, satin blouses, shimmering column gowns, and high-shine finishes… all made for a collection that, as Salma Hayek described it, was ’emotional and mind blowing.’
Find out what Dakota Johnson thought of the show right here.
Peter Dundas Revealed His First Roberto Cavalli Collection:
The Cavalli show sums up what we love most about Milan fashion week: glamour, glamour and more glamour, and for SS16 there was a new designer at the helm. Peter Dundas took over as the head honcho and we haven’t been disappointed by his offerings since he took the reigns. Dundas who originally worked for Cavalli between 2002 and 2005, described his appointment as a ‘homecoming’.
Let them cake!
Contrary to popular belief, the fash pack actually do eat, and when it comes to refuelling this Milan fashion week there is a new place you’ll find them. Pasticceria Marchesi is a Milan institution that has been making pastries for nearly 200 years and has recently had a fashionable makeover thanks to investment from Prada. The new Milan opened just in time for the SS16 shows and we predict its still the hot spot for a mid shows munch.
Versace Moved Venue
After calling its Milanese palazzo on Via Gesù home for a number of seasons, the Versace show moved. One of our favourites on the Milan schedule took place in a venue known as the Milan fairgrounds and the humongous space can seat a whopping 1043 people. Surely they can spare us all a ticket then?
By Elizabeth Bennett