The Backstage Secrets From LFW’s Top Hair Stylist

What was the inspiration behind the look at Vivienne Westwood?

Her collection was called Mirror Of The World and there was a lot of thought from her, I think she wondered: how am I mean to translate all the problems of the world into hair and makeup, and I was a bit like, well, you cant really but maybe its about stripping it back and taking elements of it. Rather than making it about the fashion make it about the brutality of it. So the skin was raw and the hair was raw and normally we always do something crazy with big hair, so at first I thought, there is no way she’s going to like this, it was really simple in a way and then she saw it and she really liked it. She always gets involved so we always work together a bit and a lot of things led into this one character, this oily shipwrecked, sex siren.

What were the hero products for the look?

The Toni & Guy Sea Salt Texturising Spray, £7.49, and the Toni & Guy Volume Plumping Mousse, £6.99. When the mousse dries it gives it shine and when you wet it down it goes wet again but still keeps a bit of control. If you just put mousse on curly hair you cant keep it consistent, some models hair would go crazy curly, so you need to know the boundaries with the product. I didn’t use any oil to get the wet look, it was all a mousse.

Vivienne Westwood Red Label SS16 Vivienne Westwood Red Label SS16

 
What was the inspiration behind the crimping at Roksanda?

Inspiration came from a 60/70’s Dutch, Belgium world. There were a lot of references of 70’s weird hair, there weren’t straighteners back then, everything was quite wild. When people brushed out their hair there was kind of a fuzz to it, it was something she said she wanted, a small detail.  It was a variation of the 70’s/80’s crazy kind of woman that’s beautiful and modern and clean and polished.

And what products did you use?

The Toni & Guy 3D Volumiser Spray, £7.49, and a bit of the Toni & Guy Volume Plumping Mousse, £6.99, again. The mousse was blow-dried into the hair, but gently and that created all the baby hairs and the static look.

Roksanda SS16 Roksanda SS16

What was the inspiration behind the crimping at Roksanda?

Inspiration came from a 60/70’s Dutch, Belgium world. There were a lot of references of 70’s weird hair, there weren’t straighteners back then, everything was quite wild. When people brushed out their hair there was kind of a fuzz to it, it was something she said she wanted, a small detail.  It was a variation of the 70’s/80’s crazy kind of woman that’s beautiful and modern and clean and polished.

Roksanda SS16 Roksanda SS16

 

Backstage at Osman they were working with the natural texture of the hair, do you feel like people are becoming more open to accepting and working with their natural textures?

A bit yes and no. People will always want to have that element of their hair being done. I think because of how influential the 90’s are at the moment, there is that whole mentality of that council estate girl and I think it allows everyone to be a bit more confident with their natural textures. Also, I think because there is more multiculturalism in fashion, now more than ever before, you are seeing girls from all different backgrounds and it never used to be like that. There would be like one Brazilian girl, one Chinese girl and that was it. Now everyone is from everywhere and there is a celebration of different hair textures and individualism, it’s a movement that is happening.

What’s going to be the next big thing in terms of hair?

There is still a really big 90’s feeling, that undone, easiness almost like Elizabeth Hurley, feminine and sexy but dressed down, not trying too hard. More than ever peoples individualism is coming through, no one wants to be put into a group or be like anyone else, people want to go against the grain.

Do you have any styling tips?

A lot of people don’t even consider using mousses. They are not that obscure, but a good mousse gives your hair such a great base to work with.

I think a lot of people with thinner hair especially are worried that mousse is going to make their hair crisp.

Yeah but that’s only if you don’t dry it in properly, if you put it in and blow dry it straight away it wont go crunchy or flaky, you must blow it in really quickly.

Gabrielle Dyer

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